After her first ventures in Deauville(1913) and Biarritz(1915), she opened her business in Paris. After her innovative years before WWII, she closed her house and lived in Switzerland after the war until reopening in 1954 to a mixed reception and eventual further acclaim. After her death in 1971, the House drifted along under the direction of Alain Wertheimer, nephew of Pierre, who helped her to launch Chanel No. 5 perfume. The couture was designed by Gaston Berthelot followed by Jean Cazaubon and Yvonne Dudel in 1974. Pret a porter was introduced in 1977 and Philippe Guibourget was the designer. Karl Lagerfeld became designer for the house in 1983(some sources say 1980).